The reason for this is so that the pattern can be continued down the body when you no longer need raglan increases. The style of these "lines" can be different depending on the design, but here are some examples of what it looks like this: Arlo & Alice baby/child cardigan It seems very useful - can't hardly wait to "play" with it.Thanks for sharing!/Lisbethk, Dear Kristen,I have always loved working raglan sweaters from the neck down, but your instructions are so thorough and easy to follow. To create a raglan, a designer will determine the desired yoke depth, shoulder width (stitches at the neck), neck width, bust circumference, and bicep circumference. Im not using a pattern, but I guess there has to be some general rule for this. So I guess the percentages are a bit different on little ones. Hey, I just came across this while making a search on raglan. critical to the proper fit of any sweater pattern. The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. The sleeves are worked from the top down starting with stitches picked March 8, 2012 - Lauren. From the website: "The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest measurement plus an allowance for ease of fit as a basis for all other measurements. I prefer to turn to the wrong side of the work and using a Cable Cast-On, which is lovely and firm. Knitting is an art, but the engineering-part of my brain is constantly questioning why so many designs can't just be explained as formulas. The most basic would be a kfb (knit into the front and back of the stitch). UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? I wanted to make sure it was perfect for you, and I'm grateful for her sharp eye and clear voice. Copyright 2023, Kristen TenDyke Designs | Powered by Shopify. You can add an inch or two here easily, and the whole sweater will be wider in the front only. I am so grateful that you give examples and this excel file.Now I can start to design my own sweaters and I really happy and thankful. Crafty Confessions: Do You Make a Gauge Swatch? If you're a designer and you're doing this and you want to help me understand what your goal was, please do write back! You also have a stitch count in the shoulder and neck. I love the neckline, too. So cute for a summer tee, dont you think? Its deep back covers any unsightly lumps we may have, and the tailored style is classic. The pattern you will get from this process will be a guideline to making a 4607 Library Road Ste 220-206 Im about to start knitting a top-down raglan sweater in the round with short rows in the back. I was trying to figure out how to start and how to measure for different sizes because I am newbie in knitting. Pittsburgh, PA USA 15102, Add neck shaping to your raglan with short rows. The front neck can be shaped with short rows or by binding off in the middle and working decreases on either side. When you get down to the torso of the sweater it can easily be shaped and fitted any way you like it. This gives each section a triangular shape. The shaping is all absolutely identical, and you can see that this would have zero effect on the back neck. In this video we learn how to use a formula to easily calculate shaping in knitting. Its very rare that a raglan wont need front neck shaping - the shoulder width needs to be about six inches wide for that to work. the example covers shaping a sleeve, but the formula can be applied to any shaping you want. Pattern Highlight - Cinders Posted on 25 Aug 07:02, The Top-Down Cordage Pullover Posted on 30 May 10:50, A Unique Spring Top - Homa Posted on 29 Apr 07:10, There's a Pullover or a Hat for the Rebirth KAL! Even when you adjust armhole depth on a sweater pattern and recalculate the raglan increases or decreases, youre going to see a smooth(ish) diagonal line between body and sleeves. The top down version is entirely seamless which makes it very accessible for beginner sweater knitters. The sleeve cap and body can be shaped at different rates or at the same rate; just remember that in most cases, the sleeve and body need to have the same number of rows or rounds between the armhole and the neck. The defining characteristics of Raglan sweaters is that they have no shoulder seam. The raglan sweater can be knit either top down or bottom up. This is post 7 of 7 in the series Sweater Construction Methods. Put a safety pin where you want the neckline to land. Thanks again and do keep designing and sharing. I was just wondering if you have any thoughts on this matter. Comments must be approved before showing up. If youre used to knitting a shaping row every other row from the neck to the body, it can be a surprise to learn thats not always going to work. Divide the number of shoulder stitches by the stitches per inch from your gauge. Amy Herzog combines compound shaping with a seamed yoke, so that sleeves and body can be shaped independently of each othershe simply eases the pieces together as she seams, no matter how differently they curve. My 6 year old has a chest measurement of 23 (rounding up) and a head measurement of 21! If the pattern already has them distributed in compound shaping, add your new decreases evenly. Raglan Fundamentals Fundamentally, a raglan is a sweater that is shaped between the underarm and the neck with four columns of decreases that go from the front and back of each armhole up to the neck. You can tell a sweater has raglan construction when you see 2 diagonal lines on each side (and on both the front and the back), starting at the inside neck and ending at the underarm. Now compare the raglan sweaters geometry to the bodys geometry. Being a word person, I got to wondering about the origin of the word raglan, so I did a little research. Thanks so much for sharing you work, I really appreciate it!!! I added red lines to make these changes easier to see (and to make Euclid cry). Lets call this C. If you have an even number of stitches, simply divide bottom neck stitches by two. These diagonal seams are created by regular decreases that gradually taper the yoke from the underarm width to the neck width. Every raglan seam should have the same 2 increases worked for each one as that way you are going to have the same seamline at each point. Compound raglans literally bend the curve, adding small arcs along the raglan line that help sweater fabric lay more smoothly on the upper bodys curves. :), I am currently knitting your Travelers End pattern and I am loving the cable pattern. Subtract starting front neck depth from desired front neck depth to get neck shaping depth. I am in a happy place. Neither will cause bunching or will change the shape of the sweater in any way. In a traditional raglan, you start with the neck size you want, increase the body and sleeves every second row or round until you get close to the body stitches you want. The contents of this post first appeared in one of my weekly Studio Updates. If youve been reading this series, all of this information should sound familiar. Thank you so much for this tutorial! Round to an even number. A garment with raglan shaping has seam lines (or shaping lines) separating the sleeves, front, and back parts of the garment through the yoke. The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. If you were here I would give you a huge hug! adventurous. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. NOTE: The photos and methodology described in this post were both updated in August 2016. Tilda by Kazekobo () The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. be aware that this pattern is a percentage approximation. For some body shapes, this works just fine, BUT on the smaller and larger end of the spectrum, you can have problems. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. I will say that this method can produce extra fabric in the underarms if your full bust point is low, which is why I'm working on that other post! In comparison to a sweater that is knit in small pieces and seamed together the one big piece may feel more cumbersome to work with as it grows into a sweater. You can find more info about Anne Marie and the services she offers here. I have fallen for more than a few of your designs but was intimidated because I am considered a new-ish knitter. If you want to join me virtually for a 12-week knitting adventure as we mastergarment fit and modification, then my signature masterclass is waiting for you here. The sleeve cap has to stretch over the outer joint of the shoulder and across the top of the shoulder to the neckline, requiring a flat plane of fabric to curve over an angled area. You may prefer (or need) the body or arms of the sweater to be longer than For a crew neck, this is typically 40 55 % of front neck certain stitches. Whichever unit you use, be sure not to round. The relatively smooth raglan lines on a sweater have to hang over these spots where curves get steeper and shallower. Because knitting is a matter of individual abilities 6-7 - somewhere in that range. The best feature of this method is that you don't need to change your needle size or yarn to The shaping of the sweater is based on raglan styling from the top down. Thank you so much for these instructions. Regards, Sarah. You will also need to have stitch holders are cast on to give ease to the shape of the torso. Post your comments or questions here, or to get questions answered, interact with other knitters and find more free stuff, join my students group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/knittingclasses/If you haven't done so already, I hope you'll like my knitting classes page on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/knittingclasses This is a pattern for working the body of the sweater as one piece starting from I figured it out decently enough for my daughter, so I'll do ok with this one, as well - The body is 20" across, so the depth of the yoke is 10", i.e. Browse designs or Try DIY The raglan line curves more at top than in the middle on this garment, shown most clearly when I laid an improvised straightedge next to the line. It can be helpful to think of it as turning away from stitches, almost as if we had placed them on waste yarn. The shaping for your raglan will fit best if you mirror this S shape - also called compound shaping. Work decreases more closely at the top and bottom, and less frequently in the middle of the raglan line. Hello Carol, This is so helpful. If you've seen a pattern that has short rows that are worked just between the raglan columns in the back, you probably want to skip those rows. I would not aim for a highly customized fit in a raglan, but you can certainly get a more body-conscious fit in a raglan than you would a drop-shoulder. You start with full raglan increases and then move on to alternating body only rows with full raglan increases so that everything fits right at the bottom of the yoke. To correct this, I write my patterns with two rates of increases. You do this by knitting to the sleeve, using a tapestry needle threaded with waste yarn and slipping all of the sleeve stitches onto the thread (tie it together, so you dont lose the stitches!!). Day 5 Pattern - click here for a PDF of sizes XS through XXL! Half of the shoulder width + raglan depth = yoke depth. Before launching into your short rows, you will need to calculate the number of rows youll be following the pattern instructions before beginning your neck shaping. of that measurement. I have a difficult time picking up the neckline where the front increases have been. With all of this in mind lets take a look at the increasingly popular raglan style sweater. It should fit you but not be tight. To do this neatly, you cast-on the underarm stitches and then join up the back of your body and work on to the other side. Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top down and involves a long, slanted seam running from the neck to the underarm. I'm going to be extremely direct here, and if you think I'm wrong - write back and tell me. About the needle size. Add a few stitches to your bicep to give yourself some extra room. Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. I would not like to have to tear up the entire jacket. This will be neck shaping rows. On small-busted women, especially those with large upper arms or lower bodies, these same lines can serve to emphasize that disproportion. Written for a bust measurement of 34 inches around the underarm, with about 6 inches of positive ease. Beginning at the neck, the number of stitches on the front (s), back, and sleeves increase at regular intervals along these lines. Divide the number of shoulder stitches by the stitches per inch from your gauge. You can space your turns as far apart or as close together as you like in the same row, but if you want to create a scoop neck, youll need to bind off instead of working short rows. Pittsburgh, PA USA 15102. Feel free to ask! You need room for your neck, or your sweater will ride up onto your neck and pull. I know how much time and detail you have put into this and I sincerely appreciate it! The shoulder width is less important as there is no set shoulder width. They dont necessarily need to be read in order but the more you know the better prepared you will be to decide which sweater construction method is best for you. As weve already seen, raglan sweaters too employ geometry ruleswhether theyre constructed from the top down or the bottom up, the neck opening is essentially a rectangle that grows at its 4 corners into trapezoids or cones. These steps assume you create a crew neck a shallow, round neckline. P.S. But you can also use this information to modify a pattern you're working from. In contrast to yoke depth, which is the total depth of the top part of the sweater, raglan depth is simply the rows you work from the cast-on to the underarm. Svalbard by Bristol Ivy A Free Bracelet Beading Pattern for Valentines Day. If youd like to see this in action, check out Soft Structure. Interestingly, in the Crimean War Baron Raglan fought alongside British Army General James Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, after whom the cardigan sweater is named! If you havent already, take a minute to check out the other posts in this series. If youd like to make a deeper neckline by binding off, you have so many choices! I enjoy raglan sweater knitting, and I know you will, too. It doesnt always create perfect results, but with a little bit of knowledge, you can easily adjust patterns to suit your body and taste. This pattern includes photo tutorial to make it easy to follow. You can get that same weird built-up neckline look from a sweater with or without short rows or neck shaping. As near as I can tell, that's happening because the designer has heard that they need to add short rows to the back but they don't really understand why or how. We know well need to close the gap between our bottom neck stitches and our neck stitches by eliminating stitches as we work towards the neck. The top one is worked with short rows, the bottom is worked with bind-offs. that which is calculated by this method. Fortunately, we crocheters and knitters have control over our own garments, and theres no rule demanding a smooth, straight raglan line. When I think about it I think Im just following and exaggerating the way the individual stitches lean so it wouldnt matter- when I get to the next sleeve I would do them in the same order. This method makes the pattern fit your gauge. You can use Kniterator to DIY your own basic top-down raglan sweater, yoke sweater, camisole, or cowl - all in your size and your gauge. One of the disadvantages of sweaters constructed seamlessly is the lack of structure provided by seams. If you opt for the top down construction of this style of sweater it can easily be tried on by slipping it off the needle and onto some waste yarn or multiple circular needles. Short rows keep us from knitting stitches. Weve already covered many fitting tips and techniques in this series, and heres our final suggestion: compound raglan shaping can also refine fit. Yours is a major contribution and I would like to applaud you. Use spreadsheet software to create custom grid paper that matches your gauge by adjusting the number of pixels in the rows and columns, and then applying a light gray outline to each cell. By understanding what the designer had in mind and what YOU need, you can intervene in an informed way. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. Front length: 19inch Back length: 20inch Bust: 41 inch (finished and wet blocked) Materials As long as that shoulder is around 2 wide, you should have adequate room in the back neck without adding extra shaping. If youd like your raglan to be more body-shaped, make some of those body increases in the front only, and AFTER youve joined for the underarm. Learn how to knit the easy way, how to knit the raglan armhole shapingHere is the link to my other knitting channelwww.youtube.com/channel/UC7dn1Kn3wCkjERvV3. Step 4: Finesse your shaping - have you used all your rows? These little crochet hearts can be stuffed with the love-infused herbs recommended, or your favorite scented herbs, and a rose quartz stone or bead to amplify the sense of love radiating off of this precious gift. The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest Ready to see what Kniterator can do for you? Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top-down and involves a long, slanted (or sometimes curved) seam running from the neck to the underarm. So watch out for all the patterns, there will be a new one added every couple of days! Or you can choose one of our designs, and get the pattern custom generated for your gauge and measurements. The test square should be made by May I ask, when knitting a raglan top down and adding short rows to raise the back neck, do you do these once you are already knitting in the round, or do you do a few back and forth rows? I'm a bit of a nerd (ok, a really big one) and I've often wondered how I could create something like this. body or the arm length. Its typical to leave a stitch on either side of the raglan shaping. Additionally the increases allow for great creativity to highlight the style lines of the raglan seam. A raglan has a true yoke, often worked in one piece, and is particularly suited to working in the round. I love hearing what you have to say! I do have a question that Im wondering if you could help with. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full charts, schematics, and waist shaping formula for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Tip: Not sure how youd like your neckline to look? Please confirm you want to block this member. LCx3 - work 6 stitches in a left leaning cable (3 stitches over 3 stitches) LCx2 - work 4 stitches in a left leaning cable (2 stitches over 2 stitches) ssk - slip as if to knit, slip as if to purl, knit the 2 slipped sts together. The 2 wider cones become the garments front and back, while the narrower cones form sleeves. When working a raglan sweater pattern, each piece can be worked bottom-up or top-down. (Not that I expect special treatment for my giant head children) Thank you! What about when I get to the next sleeve? Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. The final stitches are then cast-on across the underarm. sweater neck do not work on children with large heads! Lisa Shroyer, from Knitting Plus Personally Ive never seen a sweater design that suits everybody and that every crocheter or knitter adores wholeheartedly, without reservations. For a bit more refinement you could have a mirrored M1R and M1L, and if you were working on a lace cardigan, you might opt to use a yo (yarnover) increase as it would fit with the lace. I love the lace. However it can also be worked in pieces and seamed together. for kids and adults. WORK NECK SHAPING ROWS Work back and forth in rows, increasing on both sides of each raglan on every right side row (or as desired) and at front neck as needed for your intended neck shaping (every other row for crewneck or shallow V; every fourth row for deeper V; or as desired). Thank you so much if you can help! Short Row Shaping at the Back Neck. Today we are going to look into the pros and cons of knitting a sweater with raglan shoulder shaping and give you some pattern ideas to try out this method. Compound shaping bends the raglan line into gentle arcs. The raglan sleeve got its name from Englishman FitzRoy James Henry Somerset, the 1st Baron Raglan, who lost his arm in the Battle of Waterloo. Any ideas for a neat front neck increase? When I get to the other side of the sleeve do I do it in the same order or do I reverse the way they lean? 5. For many women, these are unfortunate places for excess fabric. If a raglan is worked with plenty of positive ease, however, these problems are alleviated. I add a factor to the chest measurement. Anyway, I can deal with it pretty easily, but it does make it a little more tricky for For some women, the knitted sweater construction can result in sleeves appearing too short and too tight, and can create discomfort at the underarm and armhole. It starts with a cowl neck, uses short rows to shape the back of the neck and then uses raglan increases on either side of a decorative seam. The shaping of the sleeve must match . Sigma Tee by Melissa Wherle, from the eBook, Easy Seamless Sweaters to KnitAh, the raglan. With adding these instructions I will be able to knit easy Things that fits well.Dorothee. raglans darts button hole placement skirt flares bias knitting gathered sleeves circular yokes If you need to increase (or decrease) a specific number of stitches within a specific number of rows there is a reliable way to calculate this. Overall, consider how much neck depth the shoulder shaping is contributing, and evaluate how much additional depth neckline shaping adds. One in about a 3-4T and the second will be about a PS - many thanks to Anne Marie Hart for technical editing support on this post! Check the illustration below. The pattern is written as if the pattern stitch is stockinette stitch. At the underarm, a few stitches are cast on to give ease to the shape of the torso. Without this shaping, the collar will be pulled to the back. (how scary is that?) For each raglan curve, reflect it in its 'base': copy the three points defining a raglan curve onto a spare piece of tissue paper, carefully labelling the neckline and the centre front points; turn it over, then align the neckline and centre front points up with the main sheet. Whats your favorite sweater style to knitraglan, set-in sleeves, dolman? Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. The raglan sweater style is fun to knit, and I love how the shaping becomes a design element. They look a little different at the top because of the final bind-off, but that difference disappears when you work in the round. In this video we learn how to use a formula to easily calculate shaping in knitting. googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('interstitial-ad');}); Save patterns, share updates, and connect with your community. Please note: 40% will create a rounder neckline, 55% will be more shallow. Custom Raglan Cardi Knit-Along, Week 3: Adjusting Body Length & Adding Waist Shaping. Raglan. Reduce the number of bottom neck stitches or work fewer rate A rows. This size allows you to get a good measurement Check out the illustration. In the picture to the left, the top swatch is worked with short rows and the bottom is worked with bind-offs, but the shaping is the exact same. Sweaters with raglan shaping have distinctive "seams" between the front (s), back, and sleeves that form diagonal lines running from the neck edge to the base of the armholes. THE CIRCULAR YOKE Two ways of visualizing the circular-yoke sleeve and body. There's one special thing about raglan sweaters that I see overlooked in so many designs. Add in my Rules 3 and 4 from above, and the problem grows. Love the changes. Hello, thanks for your interesting explanation. Count out and highlight a number of cells that corresponds to the number of neck shaping rows and the number of neck stitches, and draw the neckline you want to make. This feature makes it easier to judge the fit and modify accordingly. From the website: The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest measurement plus an allowance for ease of fit as a basis for all other measurements. Yes, since you're measuring your body, but that won't have anything to do with the raglan length. Because the top of the sleeve forms the neck edge, the front neck shaping can be included in the final rows of the sleevesangle the top of the cap by working more shaping on the side that will correspond with the front of the body. sts - stitches. Why? Thanks for your advice CarolI will experiment a little with spacing out my raglan increases. Thank you soon much for the tutorial. However when I think about looking at the sweater as a whole it seems like on one side you would want stitches to lean left and on one side you would want stitches to lean right to make it symmetrical. In a raglan, stitches from the sleeve contribute to neck depth (see illustration below). Determine how deep you want the front neck to be - desired front neck depth, This might be a good time to talk about the goal of short rows. The shaping of the sleeve must match the front and back shaping so that all the pieces fit together properly. Want to go deeper on front neck shaping? If you have an odd number of stitches, the formula is: While continuing to follow raglan shaping and stitch pattern: Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. One question shows up again and again: What formula do you use to shape a raglan? Divide shoulder width by 2 for starting neck depth. This is your desired front neck depth. This week we're going to talk about adding length to your sweater and adding optional waist-shaping. So when I pop in the measurements there is NO WAY that thing fits Lift that stitch up with the left needle (see photo #2). If you have an odd number of neck stitches, Bottom neck stitches should also be odd, and if you have an even number of neck stitches, bottom neck stitches should be even. and styles, the information on this site is presented without warranty regarding Row 2 (WS): DS, work in pattern on WS to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. In raglans worked from the bottom up, the raglan shaping is achieved with decreases. Whether . Knowing your gauge is So what can you do with all this info? It is not a sophisticated method. My reason for contacting you is just to let you know that the percentages for the If you do a few calculations, you can adjust for yourself, in the same way, to fit a pattern exactly to your body shape. One wonderful thing about raglan sweaters is that due to the method of increasing it is fairly simple to integrate patterns into the yoke and body of the sweater. Note - if you have a hump on your back you can solve that with short rows - but they'll extend past the raglan lines so that they don't create that sharp little bubble. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method The pattern is generated so that you can use any size knitting needle with any weight yarn. The sleeve cap extends all the way to the neck edge. Am enjoying your Craftsy class on short rows. Download Knitting Plus or Easy Seamless Sweaters to Knit! Several other designers, following Maggie Righettis advice from Sweater Design in Plain English, similarly praise compound shaping and its endless flexibility. However it can also be worked in pieces and seamed together. In this series we take a deeper look into the different methods for constructing sweaters and the pros and cons of each method. You probably then want to add a few more underarm increases to bring the bust size up to what you need. It is acceptable to work a few extra rows into the Expect that at some point in the future. and markers. Thank you so much. To this measurement, add your trim depth. Because were using short rows, the total rows used must equal neck shaping rows. Copy the reflected apex to the main sheet and join the dots. If the pattern has you decrease evenly between the bicep and the neck, add your new decreases at the top and bottom. As pointed out by April K., this percentage method works best for adult proportions. The shaping of the sweater is based on raglan styling from the top down. So, the basic structure of the raglan shaping begins at the neck with increases on the body and sleeves on every round, then it changes to alternating between 1 round of body and sleeve increases and 1 round of shaping on either body OR sleeves (depending on the size), then it changes to working increases on the body and sleeves every other
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